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Author Topic: Terraform Quick & Easy Painting Tips by Shawn Lux  (Read 5900 times)
Ginfritter
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« on: May 30, 2007, 05:13:25 AM »

RUINED BUILDINGS
The buildings in the web site photos were sprayed with Krylon Gray Sandable Primer and base coated with a light gray primer. The brick areas were then drybrushed with Armory "Brick". To paint the stucco areas get a old, large, stiff bristled brush. Start with a light brown and dab the paint on the stucco areas, overlapping slightly on to the bricks. Do a second coat using a lighter shade of tan or brown. For the final coat use a bone white (Poly S Frost Ivory). A final drybrush of the bone white over the whole model represents the dust that settles on blown up buildings. Use inks or a black wash to paint the blast damage areas.

An alternate quick way to paint the ruins is to start with Krylon Ruddy Brown Sandable Primer (a dark brick red color) and prime the models with the Ruddy Brown. Use a black wash or ink for fire and smoke damage. Stop here if you desire. Use a gray wash (Armory Mortuary Gray) over the whole model to paint the mortar between the bricks. Using napkin or paper towel, dab off the gray wash from the high side of the bricks leaving the grey between the red bricks. Paint the stucco as described above.

Variations
At GenCon the was a cool ruined city done by Dennis Johnston for various WWII and Sci- Fi games. He painted the buildings and rubble black and then drybrushed with lighter with grays.

RIVERS
Use Krylon gray as the base color for the rocks. Use a gray wash on the sand bars and on the rocks. Paint some of the rocks different colors (it is rare to have a stream bed with the same color rocks). Paint the plants with a dark green for the base coat, green ink , then drybrush with a lighter green.
Ultramarine blue works for the water, it will cover well over the primer. Ink the water, then drybrush with the blue. Add a little white to the blue, drybrush to highlight the detail. Using white, drybrush the whitecaps. Multiple coats of a clear gloss sealer makes the water look wet. Try not to get the clear on the plants or rocks.

Variations
Polluted River: Add trash like old tires, barrels and junk for a polluted river. Use rancid shades of green to add slime and algae.

River Of Blood or River Styx
Prime the river with Ruddy Brown primer. Use a black ink/wash to go between the rocks and river rapids. Drybrush with reds/oranges to highlight the detail. This is very simple and one of the quickest ways to do a river.

STONE WALLS, STONE BRIDGE, CATHEDRALS
Prime with Krylon gray primer (this is also the base coat). Wash with thinned dark gray or black then drybrush with a medium gray and a light gray and you are done. A nice detail is to paint some of the stones different colors to give a little variety.

Put white glue in the recessed areas and add green flocking to represent climbing vines, moss etc. The green flocking can be used on any stone work, buildings and ruins.

Use black or sepia ink to highlight the damaged area. A thin sepia ink over the entire area adds the weathered, aged look.

BARRELS, DRUMS AND METAL CRATES
A quick way to paint the metal and plastic containers. Paint red, green, or blue. Use a thinned sepia ink as a wash to cover the part completely. Add a second layer of ink over the detail area if desired.

SCIFI MODELS, HIGH TECH WALLS AND METAL CRATES
After primer, base coat black. Drybrush with metallic colors. Chainmail, brass, or bronze will work. The models with storage tanks can be painted red, blue, green or white. Give it a wash or stain and you are done.
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Ginfriitter - The Gnome Knows!
Crushar
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« Reply #1 on: May 30, 2007, 04:04:50 PM »

Shawn Lux is the most AWESOME sculpter!!! His paint jobs are stellar too of course. But hell, even I can paint, but sculpting?? THAT is talent!!!

PLEASE tell me his back in the "Armorcast fold!"
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Woo Hoo! Armorcast is back! Of course I can afford all this stuff dear.....I just need to work a few more hours....
Ginfritter
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« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2007, 06:18:42 PM »

Matt and I have met with Shawn when we were in California packing and shipping the molds and masters back to Ohio. We plan on working with the sculptors from old Armorcast as well as new patternmakers.

Ginfritter
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Ginfriitter - The Gnome Knows!
ArmorcastMatt
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« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2007, 07:43:47 PM »

I have a couple designs for Shawn to do as soon as he can fit them into his schedule. He's ShawnRL over at Coolminiornot.com check out his "NeoSoviet guy with glowing thingy" It's incredible.
Matt
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gowestover
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« Reply #4 on: May 31, 2007, 01:36:41 PM »

Hello from a new forum member!

First of all, let me start by saying that it's awesome that you guys are reviving Armorcast\Terraform and I'm excited that these models will become available again!

Regarding Shawn Lux - Yes, when I was looking for the "Ruined Cathedral" kits last year, I tracked Shawn down on CMON and we exchanged several messages. He's a very nice guy and a great sculptor\painter!

Regards,

Gordon Allen
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Regards,

Gordon L. Allen
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« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2007, 11:23:43 PM »

Yes!  Shawn will be back!

I was so fortunate as to trade with Shawn for one of his models from the techterrain series, painted by his own hand...and it's great!

More of that, please.
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shawn r. l.
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« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2007, 05:33:18 PM »

Wee wee wee weeeeee.......................I'm here!!!

Shawn r. l. Cheesy
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ArmorcastMatt
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« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2007, 08:08:28 PM »

Glad you could make it, Shawn.
Welcome aboard!
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Bluefool
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« Reply #8 on: June 27, 2007, 04:06:14 PM »

So.....possibly more Shawn Lux scultps??

Dang it, my wife is only going to ignore so much more missing from the grocery budget!


WAHOO!
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ArmorcastMatt
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« Reply #9 on: June 27, 2007, 04:35:23 PM »

Hey Bluefool,
Welcome to the fun.
Shawn's working on a new project for us right now. Check this out...

http://armorcast.com/Armorgeddon/index.php?topic=49.0
« Last Edit: August 20, 2007, 08:09:44 PM by ArmorcastMatt » Logged
Killer Weasel
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« Reply #10 on: October 16, 2007, 07:23:07 AM »

Can I ask how the modular stucco buildings shown on your website were painted?  I know there are some detailed painting tips in other posts on this forum, but I am particularly interested in getting the same stucco look and feel as the painted images.  There is some good information on how to paint brick buildings--I'm looking for the same sort of guide.

Thanks!
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